A Week in Banff

Perhaps you have heard about the grandeur of the Canadian Rockies or have seen pictures of the iconic Fairmont Chateau Hotel on the shore of Lake Louise. Maybe you have always wanted to see an actual glacier or have the chance to see a multitude of wildlife. Whatever the reason for your interest, Banff National Park and its surrounding mountains, lakes and rivers live up to their reputation for unparalleled natural beauty.

With such a large area it would be very difficult to see everything in one vacation, unless you had weeks to explore. We spent a week in this part of Alberta and experienced this gorgeous area for ourselves. In this post we will concentrate on Banff National Park, and just a few areas within both Yoho and Jasper National Parks. Even with limiting our scope, there is much to see and you will be very busy as you stand in awe at what we believe is some of the prettiest scenery in the world. Come along as we recap our trip and share some reasons why you should consider Banff for a summer vacation destination.

A Little Bit of History

During the 1870s, construction started on the Canadian Pacific Railway and by 1880 the planned route tracked through the Bow Valley in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. At that time the town was given the name of “Siding 29”. Then three years later, in 1883, three Canadian Pacific Railway workers found a series of natural hot springs on what is now called Sulphur Mountain.

The Cave and Basin hot springs were seen as potentially significant tourist attractions. With everyone arguing over the rights to develop the area, in 1885 the Canadian government moved to protect the area by creating a protected reserve around the springs and surrounding area. In 1887 that area was enlarged and named the “Rocky Mountains Park of Canada”. The town of Banff was officially named in 1884, but it was not until 1930 that the park was renamed to Banff National Park.

Banff and Lake Louise have continued to attract tourists and in 1984 both were named as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Yoho National Park was established just after Banff, in 1886. While Jasper was established as Jasper Forest Park in 1907, Jasper did not gain National Park status until 1930.

Today, the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks consists of four national parks; Banff, Yoho, Jasper and Kootenay. They make up most of the UNESCO World Heritage property’s 23,600 square kilometers. Adjoining them are three of British Columbia’s provincial parks – Mount Robson, Mount Assiniboine and Hamber.

Location and How to Get There

The Calgary International Airport is an outstanding airport and very accessible from anywhere in North America, as well as many other international airports. Calgary International Airport is also located right in town, so the drive from the airport to local hotels and activities is very short.

There are a lot of things to do in Calgary, so you might want to start your sightseeing in the city. We will cover some of those suggested activities later in this article.

Banff National Park is located about 80 miles west of Calgary and is an easy drive of just over an hour from the airport. The drive is similar to driving westward from Denver into the Rocky Mountains, but you will find the views more open and similar to the ‘big sky country’ of Montana. The actual drive is easier, since the ascent into the mountains is somewhat less steep and curvy.

Please be aware that you will need to pay an entry fee to utilize the amenities in Banff National Parks, as well as those of Yoho and Jasper. If you are visiting for multiple days and visiting multiple parks, you can obtain a single pass that will be valid in all the national parks. Check out this website to understand what you need and what will be most cost effective for your trip.

Places to Stay

Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise are the three main areas to stay while visiting Banff National Park. The town of Canmore is located just outside the national park entrance and offers the most options for accommodations. It is also typically more economical than staying elsewhere in the park. The town of Banff is much larger than Lake Louise, so it has a greater variety of hotels, restaurants and shops than does Lake Louise.

• Canmore

Canmore is our favorite place to stay when visiting Banff. The town is quite charming and there are plenty of choices for restaurants and shops. Since Canmore is only 10 minutes from Banff, it makes an excellent base for exploring the park and surrounding areas. Here are a few recommendations for places to stay in Canmore.

o Falcon Crest Lodge  – Falcon Crest Lodge offers traditional hotel rooms along with nicely appointed multi-room suites and is very conveniently located just off the Trans-Canada Highway. There are many amenities including two hot tubs, grills and underground parking. Check their website for numerous special packages, including discounts on multi-day stays and off-site activities.

o Sunset Resorts  – Sunset Resorts is our top choice when staying in Canmore. Sunset Resorts’ suites are very nice and are available with one, two, and three bedrooms. They are a little more expensive than a hotel, but with a full kitchen, you could save money on breakfasts, and maybe even a few dinners, if you decide to cook for yourself.

o Holiday Inn Canmore  – The Holiday Inn Canmore is in a great spot just off the highway and close to downtown. The Holiday Inn offers rooms and suites, some with kitchenettes and fireplaces. They even have a restaurant and bar conveniently located onsite.

• Banff

o Brewster’s Mountain Lodge  – Brewster’s is located in downtown Banff, so you can’t get a better location. This family-friendly hotel offers traditional rooms with a mountain vibe. They even offer a free continental breakfast, but there are plenty of shops and restaurants just steps away.

o Moose Hotel and Suites –  The 4-star Moose Hotel is located as you enter town and is a short walk to shops and restaurants. The hotel offers a variety of rooms, including one and two-bedroom suites, in an upscale atmosphere. They have a full-service restaurant, an opulent spa and they are even pet friendly!

o Fairmont Banff Springs –  For the ultimate Banff experience, nothing beats the world-famous Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. Known as the ‘Castle in the Rockies’, this superbly appointed hotel offers the best in service and accommodations. There are several wonderful restaurants on site and they offer numerous activities including golf and rafting.

• Lake Louise

o Post Hotel and Spa –  As part of the Relais Chateaux collection of hotels, The Post offers a great range of accommodations in a very upscale atmosphere. Typically listed in the top 10 Canadian resorts, The Post offers some incredible dining experiences as well as a full-service spa.

o Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise –  If you are looking for the perfect location for scenery, then the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is the place. Surrounded by mountains and located on beautiful Lake Louise, there are plenty of activities right at your doorstep. Check their web site for the long list of activities and services. The Fairmont is a classic place to take afternoon tea. Be forewarned that it is quite popular though, so reservations are a must.

TIP: As with many National Parks, especially where the season is short, lodging is at a premium and can be expensive. Book early and look for deals. Staying outside the park will always be more economical.

Places to Eat

There are many options for dining located in the same main areas of Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise. With so many options, only a few are listed here, just to give you an idea of what is available.

TIP: While we are only listing a sampling of restaurants, there are many options in the area. As with most tourist areas, prices vary widely. But there are some hidden gems and affordable places to eat that won’t break the bank.

• Canmore

o Tank 310 – Tank 310 is located in downtown Canmore and offers fantastic views, good food and great craft-brewed beer. It is a relaxing spot to enjoy views of Three Sisters, Ha Ling Peak and Mount Rundle.

o The Trough Dining Co – The Trough is a small, upscale restaurant with only a handful of tables. The food is first-rate and the atmosphere is intimate, yet casual. It is a good choice if you are looking for a quieter environment for a smaller group.

o Rocky Mountain Flatbread Co. – For a more laid back time with pizza, pasta and beer, try the Rocky Mountain Flatbread Co. This restaurant is perfect for everyone looking for relaxed, casual dining experience. They can also handle large parties with advanced notice.

• Banff

o The Bison – True to its name, The Bison offers several bison entrees, as well as a number of delectable Alberta beef steaks. The food here is terrific, although slightly on the pricey side. The setting is also quite nice, and includes a lovely outdoor terrace that is open even in the winter.

o Coyotes Southwestern Grill – Coyotes is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They offer an interesting array of southwestern style and Mediterranean style food. With a good selection of menu items and a great location right in Banff, Coyotes is a good choice that will have something for everyone.

o Sky Bistro – For THE best views while dining, ride the Banff Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain. After you spend a moment taking in the breathtaking view, walk a short path to the Sky Bistro. At more than 7,500 feet, Sky Bistro is worth the trip just for the incredible view alone, but fortunately the versatile menu is great too! Be sure to make a reservation because this is quite a popular spot.

• Lake Louise

o The Station Restaurant and Heritage Railway Station – For a fun alternative, try The Station Restaurant. Set within an old railway station, the atmosphere is warm and cozy. They have a nice diversity of food options and they are family friendly.

o Deer Lodge – The Deer Lodge was first opened as a tea house in 1923 and still retains much of the charm of that era. Of course, the lodge offers accommodations, some even restored to their original 1920’s condition. However, they also offer fine dining in their lovely Lake House restaurant. The elegant dining room overlooks Lake Bonavista and offers distinctive Rocky Mountain Cuisine.

Things to Do

Many times, when we fly in to a large city to start our vacation, we like to spend the first night in town, before continuing to our ultimate destination. With so many things to see and do in Calvary, if you have the time to spend a day or two, you won’t be disappointed.

• Calgary

o Calgary Zoo – The Calgary Zoo is one of the top zoos we have ever visited. The zoo is right on the Bow River and is really extensive. There is a good variety of animal species, especially those from North America. There is also plenty of activities for kids. We spent a half-day here before heading out to Banff, but we could have easily spent much more time.  From the zoo, you also get a great view of Calgary from the foot bridge that crosses the Bow River.

o Heritage Park – There are many things to see and do at Heritage Park, which is a 127-acre living history experience. Included in the park is a First Nations Encampment, a young prairie town, and a 20th century urban square.

o Calgary Stampede – Just about everyone has heard of the Calgary Stampede. This 10-day rodeo and festival is held every July, and attended by over a million people. If you are lucky enough to be in Calgary during early July, consider attending this classic event.

• Canmore

Just because Canmore is not in the park, don’t let that stop you from exploring the area. There are many things to do and some wonderful hikes and drives.

o Spray Lakes Reservoir Scenic Drive – This is a beautiful 2.5-hour drive that will provide you with a good overview of the Banff area. From Canmore head west (toward the Nordic Center) and pick up Highway 742. After a few miles you will be driving along the Spray Lakes Reservoir, a large lake created by the damming of the Spray River. Although the road is gravel, it is well maintained.  It can get a bit dusty though, if it has not rained in a while. This section of the drive is great for viewing wildlife. After passing the reservoir, there are several wetland areas where we spotted moose and other wildlife. We drove this section a couple of times and found that we spotted more wildlife in the late afternoon.

Highway 742 will take you all the way to Highway 40 (Kananaskis Trail), and then you can pick up the Trans-Canadian Highway to complete the loop back to Canmore.

o Grassi Lake Hike – Just west of Canmore off the same road, Highway 742, is Grassi Lake Hike. There is both an easy and a more difficult hike available to the top of the mountain, so its appropriate for hikers of all levels.  You will be rewarded with views of waterfalls, surrounding mountains and the stunning turquoise waters of Grassi Lake.

TIP: The Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks, especially around Banff and Lake Louise, get extremely busy in the peak summer months. It is not as much fun when you go to see beautiful scenery and hordes of people are all around you. We have found that if you get an early start you will get the best experience. We know you are on vacation, but get up and heading out early will be worth it.

• Banff

The area around Banff is full of extraordinary scenery and things to do.  Simply by driving around Banff you will uncover many unique vistas and hikes. Here is just a sampling of stops you should not to miss.

o Banff Gondola – About two miles from town you will find the Banff Gondola. The Gondola will take you to the top of Sulphur Mountain. (We mentioned the gondola as the means of accessing the Sky Bistro.) With all of Banff to see below, the views from the top are incredible. Take your time and explore all of the areas on top of the mountain.

o Downtown Banff – When you have some free time, maybe before or after dinner, take a walk around downtown Banff.  You will be treated to an array of  unique shops and cafés that line the streets.  For a cool treat, stop in at “Cows”, which touts the best ice cream in Canada.

o Fairmont Banff Springs – Even if you don’t stay at the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, stop by and stroll through the nearly 100-year old buildings and grounds.  The hotel is situated along the Bow River near Bow Falls and the views there are spectacular.

o Lake Minnewanka – Driving from downtown Banff, follow Banff Avenue across the Trans-Canada Highway and you will be on the Lake Minnewanka Scenic Drive. This is a 15-mile loop drive that goes by Two Jack Lake and Lake Minnewanka. If you arrive early in the day, the scene at Two Jack Lake is like a picture form a postcard. The scenery is gorgeous and wildlife is abundant in the area.

o Johnston Canyon  Located about 15 miles from Banff, off of Bow Valley Parkway, Johnston Canyon is one of the best hikes near Banff. The trail travels up the canyon crossing narrow bridges (with railings) that lead to the Lower Falls, and then on to the spectacular 100-foot Upper Falls. There are numerous spots along the hike for fantastic photos, especially in the early morning light.

TIP: The Johnston Canyon hike is very popular and with limited parking, can get very crowded. The best time to start is early in the morning.

• Lake Louise

Lake Louise is not as populated as Canmore or Banff, but still attracts a huge number of tourists. There are also fewer places to eat in this area, so you may want to pack your own lunch if you are visiting for the day.

o Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise – Follow the easy hiking path that traces the edge of the lake,  before you continue to the inside the Fairmont. Be sure to visit the back terrace that overlooks the lake for some really nice photos.

o Moraine Lake – You will need to plan ahead to visit Moraine Lake, but it is worth it. Plan to be here before 10 AM and visit the website for instructions on transportation. Two hikes to consider at Moraine Lake are the Lakeshore hike and the Consolation Lake hike. Both are fairly easy and provide opportunities for fantastic views.

TIP: As this area of the park gets more and more congested, unless you are a guest at one of the hotels, a bus is about the only way to visit either Lake Louise or Moraine Lake. Parking at Moraine Lake is usually full by sunrise and the road can be closed. Check here  for more information and be sure to plan ahead.

• Columbia Icefield

The Columbia Icefield and the Athabasca Glacier should be at the top of your list of things to do while in the Canadian Rockies. From Banff, travel the Trans-Canada Highway until you pass Lake Louise, then travel on the Icefields Parkway. The distance is 115 miles and you should allow about 2.5 hours for the trip. While the destination is the ice fields, the drive there is incredible, with many scenic stopping points along the way.  However, since the ice fields can get very crowded, our recommendation is to make your reservations online and then make a bee line to the ice field early in the morning. Try to arrive in time to take either the first or second shuttle to the glacier. Then once your visit to the glacier is complete, you can take your time seeing the sites along the highway as you make your way back to Banff.

o Columbia Icefield/Athabasca Glacier –  Be sure to purchase your tickets in advance, before arriving at the Columbia Icefield Discovery Center. Once there, you can explore the exhibits while waiting for your shuttle. Your shuttle is actually a huge bus with gigantic tires that allow the vehicle to travel safely on the snow and ice. You will have about an hour to walk the glacier and take photos of the magnificent views. Visiting a glacier is really a once in a lifetime experience that should not be missed.

o Scenic Drive

• Saskatchewan River Crossing – There is no real spot to pull over here, but the scenery along the Saskatchewan River is very pretty. Just slow down a little and let your passengers take some photos along the way.

• Peyto Lake – Pull off the highway at Bow Summit, the highest point on the Icefields Parkway. This stop provides some of the best views of the lake. When we were looking at pictures before our trip, we were amazed at the colors of Peyto Lake and wondered if it really looked like that. Well, it really does. During the summer, glacial rock flour flows into the lake from a nearby glacier, and these suspended rock particles give the lake a bright, turquoise color.

• Bow Lake – Just down the highway a short distance is Bow Lake, which are the headwaters of the Bow River. Water flowing from the Bow Glacier and surrounding streams feed Bow Lake and the river. The Bow River will be just about everywhere you go, as it flows through Lake Louise, Banff, Canmore and even Calgary. In fact, if you went to the Calgary Zoo, a foot bridge crosses the Bow River.

• Yoho National Park

o Lower Spiral Tunnel Scenic Viewpoint – Be sure to pull over here for not only more great views, but also the spiral train tunnels. When the railroad was originally built to cross Kicking Horse Pass, there was no way to build a gently sloping climb, which resulted in the train tracks having to cross the ‘Big Hill’. This very steep climb proved quite dangerous. So, in 1909, a set of spiral tunnels was constructed that allowed for a more gradual climb that spiraled up the mountain. Some 25 to 30 trains pass through this area every day. So, if you time it right, you will catch site of a train as it goes in and out of tunnels, spiraling up the mountain.

o Natural Bridge – The Natural Bridge is about 20 miles from Lake Louise on the Kicking Horse River. This is a very pretty area with some great picture opportunities.

o Emerald Lake – Emerald Lake is located only 4 miles from the Natural Bridge. One of the largest lakes in Yoho, it is another spectacular lake with colors that are amazing. A hiking trail follows the shore and takes you to the far side of the lake. It is about 1.2 miles each way, but the trail is flat and easily traveled. After the hike, there is a terrific little place to stop for a quick bite, the Cilantro Café. It is located just across the walking bridge and has beautiful views. Watch out for wildlife in this area, including mountain lions!

o Takakkaw Falls – The Takakkaw Falls are located off of the Trans-Canada Highway on Yoho Valley Road. The falls have a total height of over 1200 feet making it the second tallest waterfall in Canada. The falls are fed by the meltwater of the Daly Glacier, which keeps the volume of the falls consistent, even during the warm summer months. As you approach the falls you will feel the spray, especially if there is any wind.

TIP: The road leading to the falls can be steep with very tight switchbacks in places. Cars can make it easily, but if you have a large vehicle, like an RV, you will likely not be able to make the turns.

We hope you have enjoyed this high-level review of our trip through this part of the Canadian Rockies. You could easily spend weeks exploring this remarkable area. More importantly, we hope that these highlights have piqued your interest in making Banff a destination for your future travels.

Until next time, safe travels