The “Crown of the Continent” is the apt name coined by George Bird Grinnell when he first visited the area now known as Glacier National Park in the late 1800’s. Grinnell was a frequent visitor to the area and was instrumental in getting legislation passed to create the national park. He recognized the unique history and beauty of this national treasure that has now been visited by more than 100 million visitors!
Glacier National Park is truly a special place. The mountains are rocky and rough. The verdant valleys and meadows are filled with an abundance of flora and fauna. Thanks to the ice ages, the park is filled with more than 700 lakes. And then there is of course, the glaciers themselves. When the park was formed there were 150, but that number has diminished to only about 25 active glaciers in the park today. A number of these glaciers can be seen from roadways, while others can be reached by hiking. No matter how you view them, they are stunning sights to behold!
Although you could spend much more than 3 days visiting Glacier, our 3-day itinerary will allow you to see some of the most iconic spots in the park, and give you a chance to relish the pristine, rugged grandeur of Glacier for yourself.
How to Get There
Glacier National Park is located in northern Montana, right on the Canadian border. The scenery in this part of the country is gorgeous, and although the surrounding area is largely rural, there are several lovely small towns surrounding Glacier.
We visited Glacier as part of a cross-country road trip, but if you do not have the time or ability to make the drive, flying is a very viable option. There are several airports within a reasonable driving distance. The closest airport is the Glacier Park International Airport near Kalispell, located about 30 miles from the West Entrance of the park.
Some other reasonable choices in Montana include:
- Missoula International Airport, located about 150 miles south of the park,
- Great Falls International Airport, located about 200+ miles southeast of the park, and
- Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport, located 350+ miles southeast of the park.
Although, it will take about six hours to drive to the park from Bozeman, it is an easy, stress-free drive through Big Sky Country that you will really enjoy, if you have the time to spare.
All of these airports are serviced by major airlines and all the nationally-known car rental agencies are there as well.
TIP: Glacier National Park and its Canadian cousin, Waterton Lakes National Park actually share the international border. If you have traveled all the way to Glacier, do not miss a chance to visit Waterton Lakes. Of course, you will have to cross the border into Canada, so you will need a passport and awareness of the current COVID restrictions. Also, make sure that traveling outside the U.S. is permitted by your car rental company.
Where to Stay
- In the Park
- In the Park
The main benefit of staying inside the park is the fact that you will need to do a lot less driving to see the sights. There are actually quite a few lodging options within the park, and the selection includes everything from primitive camp sites, cabins, motels, and lodges to rustic backcountry mountain chalets. While there is a good variety in the types of accommodations, keep in mind that most of these places are only open for a few months per year, so reservations tend to fill up fairly quickly.
Two of the most sought-after spots are the Sperry Chalet and the Granite Chalet. There are no roads to these chalets, so the only way to access them is by some fairly strenuous hiking. Neither of these chalets has electricity, running water or heat. But while the comforts are few, the views are breathtaking. It’s really like being at the top of the world; a true bucket list experience!
If you are planning on staying at the Granite Chalet, understand that you need to bring just about everything you will need, including your food, water and linens. Not only that, but you will need to prepare your own meals in the Chalet’s kitchen. Although, for an additional fee you can arrange to have your food and linens brought to the chalet for you. The Sperry Chalet is a bit less rustic in that linens and 3 meals per day are provided.
There are a very limited number of rooms available and once reservations for these properties open, they go very quickly. For 2021, the reservation window for both chalets opens on January 11 at 8:00am MST. Reservations are taken online and by phone.
You can find all the information regarding all of the accommodations within Glacier here.
- Outside the Park
At approximately 1 million acres of land, Glacier is a very large park. For example, it takes at least 1 ½ hours to make the drive across the park from East Glacier Park to Kalispell on the western side of the park. That means you may want to consider all of your planned activities and understand where they are located within the park before you make a decision on where to stay. As mentioned earlier, there are no large towns in this part of Montana, but there are some charming smaller towns surrounding the park.
- Kalispell – The largest of these surrounding towns is Kalispell. There you will find all types of lodging including chain hotels, inns, lodges, bed and breakfasts, Airbnb and other vacation rental properties. The town also has a large selection of restaurants, shops and friendly people. It does tend to get a bit crowded in peak summer months. However, if you are looking for a town with the most amenities, Kalispell is probably the best choice.
- Whitefish – Also located on the western side of the park is the town of Whitefish. This inviting small town is located at the base of the Whitefish Mountain Ski Resort. While smaller than Kalispell, you will still find many excellent accommodations, restaurants, breweries, art studios and galleries, without some of the summer crowds of the larger town.
- East Glacier Park, St. Mary and Browning – While there are fewer choices in accommodations and restaurants on the east side of the park, you will still find plenty of selections in East Glacier Park, St. Mary and Browning. There are fewer chain hotels and restaurants in these towns, so establishments are mostly privately owned. Also, there are vacation rentals in these areas through VRBO, Airbnb and others. The main reason to stay in these areas is for the relatively easy access they provide to the eastern areas of the park.
- Waterton, Canada – The town of Waterton in Canada is literally just across the international border. As long as there are no border restrictions (during times of COVID), do not overlook Waterton as a viable place to stay. There are lots of accommodations in the town of Waterton, as well as in the surrounding areas. We actually stayed just north of Waterton in a bed-and-breakfast that was fantastic. Another plus for staying in Canada, is that due to the favorable exchange rate, the prices are a bit less expensive for Americans.
Things to See and Do
With more than 700 miles of trails, Glacier National Park is known as a ‘hiker’s paradise’. However, there is an enormous number of other things to see and do in Glacier. We came primarily for the hiking, but if you can think of an outdoor activity, its probably available inside the park. Kayaking, canoeing, horseback riding, whitewater rafting, bird watching, wildlife viewing and flyfishing are all readily available.
TIP: There is no need to purchase a license or permit to flyfish anywhere inside Glacier! They do have regulations regarding when and where you are permitted to fish, and what species and quantities of fish you are permitted to keep. You can check out that information here.
As mentioned, we spent most of our time hiking, so most of our itinerary will be devoted to that activity. However, if you are not up for hiking, but still want to see the Glacier, bus tours are available to shuttle you throughout the park.
Weather
The continental divide runs through Glacier and as a result the weather on each side of the divide can be quite different. The eastern side tends to be drier, sunnier and windier. The western side tends to get much more rain, fog and clouds.
Regardless of where you are in the park, you should be prepared for changing conditions. When you are out and about, bring along some rain gear in the event you encounter an unexpected shower.
Winter
Although this blog post is devoted to a summertime trip to Glacier, the park is also a winter destination. In winter, most accommodations, restrooms and restaurants are closed. Surprisingly though, the Going-to-the-Sun road from West Glacier to McDonald lodge is plowed and is open all year, weather permitting. Snowshoeing and cross-country ski trails are available in Apgar Village, along with primitive camping and a small camp store.
If you are traveling to Whitefish for a winter ski trip, consider taking a day to visit the Apgar Village area on the western side of the park.
Itinerary
Day 1 – Hike to the Grinnell Glacier Viewing Area
On our first full day in Glacier, we made the hike from the Many Glacier Hotel to Upper Grinnell Lake and the Grinnell Glacier viewing area. There are a couple of options for this hike, but if you elect to hike the entire route, be prepared to spend a full day making the roundtrip journey. The full roundtrip hike from Many Glacier to Upper Grinnell Lake is about 12 miles in length. If you elect this option, the first part of the hike will be around the shorelines of two interconnected lakes. Both Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine are beautiful and they are surrounded by mountain peaks, including the stunning Mt. Gould that towers over Lake Grinnell in the distance. The lakeside trail is very well-maintained and is generally flat, making for a pretty easy hike for families or anyone wanting a relaxing, yet rewarding hike.
Instead of hiking around the lakes, another option to reach Upper Grinnell Lake is to take a boat from the Many Glacier Hotel to the southern end of Lake Josephine. This shortcut will take about 4 miles off of the full hike. Primarily in the interest of time, we elected to take the boat. The boat ride across the lakes gives you time to soak up all the magnificent scenery and look for animals along the shoreline. We saw a moose, a bear and a bald eagle on our trip.
Although the boat option will save you some time, there are a couple of downsides to taking the boat. First, cost of a roundtrip ticket for an adult is about $33. So, depending on the number of people in your party, the boat trip could be a pricey option. The second concern is that you have to be cognizant of the boat’s schedule and time your return trip accordingly. If you miss the returning boat, you will be waiting at least an hour for the next one.
Whether traveling on foot or by boat, once you are beyond Lake Josephine, the hiking trail proceeds upwards in a long series of switchbacks that may seem a little daunting. However, once you reach the top of these switchbacks, most (but not all) of the climbing will be behind you.
Once you reach the top, the vistas are wide open and the views all around you are simply amazing. Looking forward, you will see Grinnell Lake. Don’t forget to look behind you to take in the views of both Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine in the valley far below.
As you continue on to Upper Grinnell Lake, the trail narrows in some spots, and if you have any trouble with heights you will want to ‘hug’ the cliff wall along these portions of the trail. Shortly before arriving at Upper Grinnell Lake, you will reach a rustic picnic area and you may be tempted to think you have reached the end of the trail. However, stay left and the trail will continue up a rocky and moderately difficult stretch for about ¼ of a mile. Be careful, but look around and take in amazing sights surrounding you.
Also, be on the lookout for the big horn sheep that frequent the flowering meadows in this area. They do not seem to be fearful of people and they tend to linger and graze close to the trail. We noticed some folks getting a bit close to the sheep. Remember, they are wild animals and you should not provoke them by getting to close. By all means take their photo, but remember to give them some space.
We did not see any bears along the hiking trail, but they are in the area. During summertime, the hike to Upper Grinnell Lake is pretty popular so the chances of seeing a bear are fairly low. Still, encounters do occur and we recommend taking along a can of bear spray. Be sure you know how to use it though and keep it accessible, just in case.
After the rocky section, the trail descends to the shores of Upper Grinnell Lake and you will have an unobstructed view of the Grinnell Glacier itself. This is the perfect spot for relaxing, having lunch and resting for the return hike.
Including the boat ride, we spent about 5 to 6 hours making the roundtrip. Once we returned to Many Glacier, we toured the hotel and stopped at Heidi’s for a quick snack. If you prefer a meal before or after your hike, there are two other restaurants in the hotel that offer table service.
TIP: If you decide to take to boat trip across Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine, we strongly recommend making a reservation with Glacier Park Boat Company. We also recommend starting as early in the day as possible to avoid the majority of the crowds and to ensure you do not run out of daylight on your return trip.
Day 2 – Hike to Iceberg Lake
For our second day in Glacier, we decided on another spectacular hike to Iceberg Lake. The trailhead is behind the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. Follow the signs for the Iceberg-Ptarmigan Trail. Get there early if you can, because this hike is a popular one, and parking fills up quickly.
This trail really has it all and was our favorite hike in the park. The trail is moderately difficult having only a 1200-foot elevation gain, but the roundtrip hike is just under 10 miles. So, this hike will take you most of the day. Most of this trail passes through prime grizzly bear habitat, so try to make some noise while you are hiking and keep the bear spray within reach.
The very first part of the trail is a little steep, but only for a short way. Then the trail opens up to stunning vistas of green valley meadows, wildflowers and towering mountains, including Mt. Wilbur. A little over halfway into the hike you will reach Ptarmigan Falls. This is a nice spot for a short respite before continuing on to Iceberg Lake. Soon after, the trail splits and you will need to follow the signs to Iceberg Lake.
After another 2 miles or so, you will make the last ascent of the hike and you will get your first view of Iceberg Lake. On a sunny day, the beautiful turquoise lake, with its many floating crystalline icebergs, is juxtaposed with the surrounding peaks soaring its perimeter, making for one of the most spectacular sights in the park.
Continue your hike right down to the shores of the lake and rest awhile while drinking in the beautiful scenery, including the surrounding fields of wildflowers. You will be tempted to take a dip in the crystal clear water and apparently some people do. However, we would advise against it. The water is incredibly cold and just posing for a few moments in ankle-deep water was extremely painful!
After you have rested, make the return trip to the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn. Watch out for wildlife, especially the big horn sheep that love to hang out on the rocky cliffs. If you need a quick snack once you have returned to the parking lot, check out Nell’s at the inn. It’s a great place for a light snack or late lunch.
Day 3 – Going-to-the-Sun Road Driving Tour
On the last day of our visit, we took a break from hiking to drive the famed Going-to-the-Sun road. We started on the eastern terminus of the road near St. Mary. The trek from St. Mary to West Glacier is about 50 miles and it will take 2 to 3 hours, depending how often you stop.
The road traverses the continental divide and meanders through examples of just about every terrain found in the park. You will be able to see peaks and valleys, stunning glacial lakes and even the glaciers themselves. Just like other activities in the park, we recommend starting early in the day. Everyone stops at Logan’s Pass for the views. If you are visiting during the prime summer months, the parking lot there will probably be full by 10:00AM.
If you are not accustomed to driving mountain roads, this drive can seem a little scary. If you have driven other mountain roads such as the Skyline Drive or the Blue Ridge Parkway, you will find this road to be very similar, except of course, its much higher. Nevertheless, the road is very well maintained, there are guardrails where needed and there is really nothing to fear. If you really do not want to drive, the Red Bus Tours offers excursions that include the Going-to-the-Sun Road.
Keep in mind that elevation along this trip increases dramatically. Even in summer months the weather at the higher elevations can be colder and foggier. So, be sure to bring along a warm jacket, hat and even some rain gear.
We loved every minute of our trip to Glacier National Park. In fact, this park is probably our favorite of all the parks we have visited thus far. You will not be disappointed in a trip to this incredible place! As an added bonus, the other half of the ‘Crown of the Continent’ lies just over the Canadian border in Waterton Lakes National Park. It is another beautiful park with some unique and interesting features. Be on the lookout for an upcoming post about our visit to Waterton Lakes!
Until next time, safe travels!
Excellent article!
We spent three days in Glacier ourselves a number of years ago when the children were young. It was on a six week trip to explore the Northwest. Glacier is a phenomenal spot – majestic peaks, beautiful lakes, and a host of animals to see. Looking for a fun-filled adventure? Glacier National Park is a must see!
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Back in 1979 spent about 2 weeks there. One of my favorite I have ever been. Remember getting caught in a snow storm while hiking in higher elevations. Back down the mountain and weather was fine.
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