Last month in Part I of our posts on Yellowstone, we discussed a 3-day itinerary of Yellowstone National Park during the summer. (If you missed that article, you can find it here.) But while summer is a wonderful time to visit the park, the winter months hold a unique grandeur all their own. With the frigid temperatures and deep snow, the thermals take on different characteristics and wildlife can be found in abundance.
One of the first things that you will notice about Yellowstone during the winter months is, of course, the amazing amount of snow on the ground. On average, Yellowstone receives anywhere from 150 to nearly 400 inches of snow per year, depending on the elevation. With so much snow, animals such as elk and buffalo are forced to migrate to the lower elevations of the park, where it may be a bit easier to forage for food. Many other species such as coyotes, wolves, fox, moose and mule deer will likely be found there as well, trying to survive the harsh winter conditions.
During winter, the hydrothermal features of the park are especially impressive. The geyser basins are continually boiling and belching out massive amounts of steam that appear like smoke over the landscape. And the park’s most famous geyser, Old Faithful, is not to be missed any time of year. However, in winter its eruptions are spectacular!
So read on, as we take a look at what its like to visit the nation’s oldest national park in winter.
Getting There
Flying – The two main options for flying to Yellowstone are the Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport and Jackson Hole Airport. Bozeman is located in Montana, and assuming the weather cooperates, you can reach the North and West Entrances to the park in just over 90 minutes. While Jackson, located in Wyoming, is about one hour from the South Entrance.
Driving – Beginning in early November, wheeled vehicles are not allowed in most areas of Yellowstone until sometime in the spring. The only road open during the winter is the road from the North Entrance at Gardiner, Montana to the Northeast Entrance at Cooke City, Montana. Otherwise, in order to get into any other areas of the park, you will likely need to join either a snowmobile or snow coach tour.
Since you cannot drive inside the park, your best bet will be to arrange a tour that will enter the park either through the West or South Entrances.
Where to Stay
Outside the Park – For many people, their visit to the park is part of a winter ski vacation. The common ski resorts nearby are Big Sky to the north and Jackson Hole to the south. We stayed in Big Sky, Montana. From there it is a relatively short, beautiful drive along the Gallatin River to the West Entrance to the park. During the winter there are usually bison and elk, and maybe even moose, along the river.
One of the advantages of staying in Big Sky or Jackson Hole is the abundance of lodging and restaurants, and of course, all the great downhill skiing. We have skied in Big Sky many times and always ventured to Yellowstone during our stay.
Another option, if not skiing nearby, is to stay in the town of West Yellowstone, which is only minutes from the West Entrance.
Inside the Park – Winter lodging is very limited inside the park, so be sure to check on which places are open and the dates. Due to COVID-19, the 2020-2021 winter season lodging is even more limited than usual. Unfortunately, the Old Faithful Lodge is not open this season. But there are a couple of options in the Mammoth Springs area, including the campground which is open year-round.
Accessing the Park
A winter itinerary for Yellowstone is a bit different than visiting during the summer. No private vehicles are allowed in the park. There are a few exceptions, including a lottery for private snowmobile groups, but those opportunities are very limited. Most visitors this time of year are visiting for the day, so here are few options you can consider when visiting Yellowstone in the winter. But remember, a guide is required to bring you into the park.
In years past, before access to the park was as restrictive, we visited the park on our own. We enjoyed those visits, but in retrospect, we found that we missed out on a lot. Now, we actually prefer having a guide. Your guide will be able to explain all the sights, point out the wildlife and share their knowledge and history of Yellowstone.
– Snowmobiling – A guided snowmobiling tour is probably the most fun way to see the park, and it only takes a short time to be comfortable driving the machine. Although most tours will provide insulated snowmobiling suits, it can be extremely cold. Be sure to bring along some hand and toe warmers. We actually experienced some minor frost bite on one particularly cold sub-zero day!
If you prefer to do some snowmobiling on your own, there are many opportunities and trails outside of the park. The local snowmobile rental company can provide maps and suggestions for your solo trip.
– Snow coach – By far the most comfortable and warm way to tour is by snow coach. A snow coach is a van-like vehicle that is designed to operate safely on snow and ice. These tours are very popular, and are a wonderful option for children or anyone who wants to stay warm and toasty. The views from inside the coaches are great and there are also frequent stops so passengers can stretch their legs and take photos.
– Cross Country or Snowshoeing – If you prefer to experience the serenity of the great outdoors without a motor, cross country skiing and snowshoeing tours are readily available. You can arrange to be accompanied on your tour by a guide. Alternatively, if you prefer to head out on your own, you can arrange to be dropped off and picked up at different points in the park. You will find plenty of trails for both skiing and snowshoeing throughout the park.
Here is a link to the extraordinary number of trails available for skiing and snowshoeing, as well as a link to the guides that are authorized by the National Park Service. Although we have been to Yellowstone during the winter numerous times, we have actually not skied or snowshoed there. We have always elected to tour by snowmobile or snow coach. While we are not endorsing any individual vendor, here is a link to those companies that the National Park Services has authorized for winter tours.
Itinerary – West Yellowstone to Old Faithful
Most of the authorized tour companies offer snow coach and/or snowmobile tours to the two most popular destinations in the park, the Grand Canyon and Old Faithful. Both are spectacular, but we feel that there is more to see on the trip to Old Faithful. We have always started our trips from West Yellowstone, which is located at the West Entrance to the park. However, you can easily adjust this plan if you are starting from the South Entrance or somewhere else.
You will begin your day early by meeting your tour in West Yellowstone. Some tours offer a light breakfast, or you have may even choose one of the restaurant options in town. If you are joining a snowmobile group, they will outfit you with all the necessary snowmobile gear and instructions. But be sure to dress in layers and remember to bring those hand and toe warmers!
The total distance from West Yellowstone to Old Faithful is about 30 miles. Whether you are traveling by snow coach or snowmobile, you will be making frequent stops because there is so much to see along the way. Keep your camera handy, because there will be a lot of great photo opportunities on the trip. Let’s take a look at some of those things you will see on the journey.
o West Yellowstone to Madison Junction – The road follows the Madison River during this section of the trip. There is not a lot of thermal activity in this area, but there can be abundant wildlife along the river. Be on the lookout for bison, elk, and moose. Along all the waterways be on the lookout for bald eagles and trumpeter swans.
Most tours will make a brief stop at the warming hut in Madison Junction, which is about 15 miles into the trip. On cold mornings this is a welcome stop to warm up, especially if you are traveling by snowmobile.
o Firehole Canyon – Just south of Madison Junction you will turn on to Firehole Canyon Drive for a 2-mile drive along the Firehole River. This is a beautiful drive with close up views of Firehole Canyon and the river. After a brief drive, you will reach Firehole Falls. The winter scene of the falls is spectacular.
o Lower Geyser Basin – Fountain Paint Pot – The Fountain Paint Pots are probably the most famous of the paint pots in Yellowstone. The slow bubbling, gurgling, muddy clay pots along with the variety of colors is stunning. You will also notice the strong odor of ‘rotten eggs’. This odor is due to the hydrogen sulfide gas that is emanating from all that bubbling mud.
Much of the snow will be melted around the hot pots and the cold air makes the rising water vapor seem to sparkle in the sun.
o Firehole River – From Madison Junction all the way to Old Faithful, the road will follow the Firehole River. Your tour will be making frequent stops as you approach wildlife along the way. One of the big perks of a winter visit is all of the wildlife you will see. During the winter when there is heavy snowfall, wildlife will gather near the thermals and geyser basins. Because of the heat from the thermals, the snow there will not be as deep, making it easier to forage for food. Wildlife will also be moving much slower to conserve energy. As you can see, photo opportunities are everywhere.
But be cautious, the wildlife – especially the bison, will use the plowed roads to travel from point to point, since it is much easier for them to walk there, rather than plowing through the deep snow. Their presence on the road can cause some issues, particularly if you are on a snowmobile. Although guides will do all they can to avoid passing the bison, sometimes it just cannot be avoided. It can be quite daunting to be so close to these magnificent animals, so be sure to follow your guide’s instructions to the letter when approaching them.
TIP: During the winter months, animals are under additional stress brought on by the extreme cold and the need to constantly forage for food. Do not approach them or assume because they are not reacting that they are fine with you coming close to them. The truth is they just do not want to expend any additional energy if it is not necessary. That said, they are still unpredictable and dangerous. So, for the sake of both yourself and the animals, give them plenty of space and do not add to their stress.
When wolves were reintroduced to Yellowstone in 1995, we were told it would be highly unlikely for a visitor to ever see one. However, the wolf population expanded more quickly than expected and now it is not uncommon to see them, usually off in the distance. The wolf population has caused profound changes to other wildlife in Yellowstone, including a stabilization of the number of elk and a significant drop in the coyote population. Smaller numbers of elk have allowed bears to thrive since there is less competition from elk for the summer berries. Fewer coyotes have actually resulted in an increase in the pronghorn antelope population, because fawns are frequent prey of coyotes. To read more about the history of wolves and their impact in Yellowstone, check out this article.
o Midway Geyser Basin – Originally known as ‘Hell’s Half Acre’, it is now called ‘Midway’ since it is between the Lower and Upper basins. The Grand Prismatic Spring and Excelsior Geyser can be found here and are two of Yellowstone’s largest hydrothermal features. During a cold and clear winter day the colors of the springs and geysers present an amazingly vivid rainbow of colors.
o Upper Geyser Basin (Old Faithful) – Yellowstone has approximately half of the world’s geysers with most of them located at the Upper Geyser Basin. This area is the most densely concentrated geyser region in the world with over 150 hydrothermal wonders.
Your guide will take you to the Old Faithful Geyser and talk about the Upper Basin as you wait for the eruption. As you can see in the pictures above, when temperatures are well below freezing, the spray from the eruption instantly crystalizes providing a spectacular shimmering show!
From the Old Faithful viewing area, there are pathways and boardwalks that allow you to walk through the basin. The guide will usually take you on a short walk and explain some of the features, or you can stroll along the boardwalk yourself. There is usually ample time for you to explore the 3-mile Upper Basin Geyser Loop Trail on your own, or as much of it as you like. The scenery in this area is simply amazing. As you walk around the Upper Basin, be sure to look back toward the Old Faithful Inn for some iconic photos!
TIP: The water near the boardwalks may not look hot, but it is. In fact, the average temperature is 143 degrees, and some areas are much hotter. More people have been injured or killed in these hot springs than any other natural feature. There are also very sensitive, tiny life forms that live in and near these springs. So, for your safety and for that of all the wildlife, please stay on the path or boardwalk and especially keep a close eye on children and pets.
We hope you get the opportunity to experience Yellowstone in the winter. We think you will be impressed, as we have been on our visits there.
Thanks for joining us on our trip to Yellowstone. Once you have visited it is easy to understand why so many people visit this park each year. There is so much more to see and we hope to return sometime soon.