Prior to our recent trip to Italy, we scarcely knew anything about Tivoli, Italy – other than the name. We did not know that this picturesque area just east of Rome is home to two UNESCO World Heritage sites. And, we did not suspect that this day trip to Tivoli would be one of the highlights or our entire trip to the Mediterranean.
Perhaps it is because the town and its surrounding area were so unexpectedly beautiful, or perhaps it is because there was so much history spanning nearly 2 millennia, but we were beyond impressed with our visit. While the ancient town of Tivoli is worth visiting all on its own, it is Hadrian’s Villa (also known as Villa Adriana) and Villa d’Este that are the UNESCO sites, and primarily what we will explore in this post.
History
Before we share our visit, it is important to get a little background in the history of this area. Although separated in history by more than 1400 years, Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este are inextricably linked in some interesting ways that we will discuss a little later.
First, most folks have probably heard of Emperor Hadrian, but may not know too much about him. Hadrian was Emperor of the Roman Empire from 117 to 138 AD. Born into an influential family, Hadrian’s father was both a senator and first cousin to Emperor Trajan. After Trajan’s death, Hadrian was approved as his successor to the imperial throne.
Hadrian is well known for pursuing his own beliefs and interests while emperor. He visited almost every portion of the empire, and because of his affinity for the Panhellenic culture, he actually sought to make Athens the cultural capital of the Roman Empire. In addition, he eschewed expansion of the realm in favor of solidifying and stabilizing it. He is known for Hadrian’s Wall in England, which served as a fortification of Britannia from northern invaders. He also rebuilt the Pantheon in Rome, which had been destroyed twice by a fire, as well as numerous temples and buildings throughout the rest of the empire.
Visiting Hadrian’s Villa
Hadrian was not a fan of the emperor’s palace on the Palatine Hill in Rome, so he constructed his private villa in Tivoli (then called Tibur). But after having visited this expansive retreat, the term ‘villa’ seems like a vast understatement.
Hadrian’s Villa encompassed 7 square miles, including 30 buildings, water features, elaborate gardens, running water and heated baths. In its day, it was considered the height of opulence and was home to more than 5000 people! Significant portions of the buildings and walls are still intact and it’s amazing to think that all of this complex construction was accomplished 2000 years ago, without the benefit of modern engineering!
Hadrian constructed his elaborate estate using priceless marbles and other building materials. Many of the structures he chose to build were reminiscent of the many places he had visited within the empire, especially Greece and Egypt. For example, a recreation of the Nile River runs through a portion of the property and many Greek Poikilos figures can be found throughout the estate
Unfortunately, after a couple of hundred years, the villa fell into disuse and many of its treasures were pilfered for use in the surrounding area.
Villa D’Este
Fast forward some 1400 years to the 15th century, when Cardinal Ippolito Il D’Este commissioned the construction of Villa D’Este. The Cardinal was the son of the Duke of Ferrara and Lucrezia Borgia and also the grandson of Pope Alexander VI. Thanks to his great wealth, the Cardinal was known for his lavish spending, unsparing patronage of the arts and vast collection of antiquities. Eventually, he was awarded the permanent title of Governor of Italy, and as such he had jurisdiction over everything in his territory, including the site of Hadrian’s Villa.
As part of his governorship, the Cardinal was awarded a 9th century convent to use as his home. However, this old building did not suit the Cardinal and his large household, so he commissioned a new palace and garden on the same site. His goal was to build something grander than anything built by the ancient Romans.
Since the Cardinal was a bit of a spendthrift, he did not always have the funds for fulfilling his many extravagant plans for the construction of his estate. Keep in mind that the Villa d’Este sits on a hill overlooking the ruins of Hadrian’s Villa. Hadrian’s Villa was rife with statues, rare marbles and all sorts of valuable artifacts. As the governor of the region, the Cardinal helped himself to a lot of those antiquities and incorporated them throughout his own villa. In retrospect, the Cardinal may have done history a favor, since many of the antiquities were actually better preserved through their placement within the d’Este estate.
After visiting the Villa d’Este, it is clear that the Cardinal succeeded in his goal of surpassing Roman construction! The interior of the palace, while no longer furnished, provides a spectacular display of art in the form of paintings, frescoes and statuary. Teams of well-known artists of the day were commissioned over a period of 5 years to complete all of the stunning artwork.
However, as fabulous as the interior of the palace is, it is actually the 12 acres of Renaissance-style gardens which makes this estate so special. Cut into the side of 2 large hills, the multi-leveled gardens begin at a huge terrace that is adjacent to the back of the palace. It is from this terrace where you will get your first views of the massive gardens, its 60 waterfalls and 500 fountains.
It is difficult to describe the beauty of this garden. It is simply breathtaking. What’s more, the actual engineering behind all of the fountains is almost unbelievable. The estate is located along the Aniene River. Water from the river is diverted to the estate and is the only source of water for the ubiquitous water features. Remarkably, there are no motors, pumps or modern engineering used to operate any of the fountains. All of the fountains are powered by gravity and water pressure alone. Water passes through each fountain and waterfall, as it gradually moves downhill through the gardens. You cannot help but be awestruck at the amazing engineering of the 1500’s when you consider just how many fountains there are, coupled with the fact that some of the fountains rise 100 feet in the air!
Rather than trying to describe the fountains, peruse these photos. You will notice people in the forefront of some of them, so you can get an idea of the scale. Realize too, that these represent only a fraction of the fountains at Villa d’Este.
Personally, at least to me, these are the most beautiful gardens that I have ever seen anywhere. And, I do not think I am alone in that regard. Have you heard of the Jardin de Tivoli in Paris, or Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen? Both of these famous spots were named for the gardens of Villa d’Este!
The City of Tivoli
Sitting atop the Sabine hills and along the falls of the Aniene River, the ancient city can trace its roots back to the 13th century B.C. Famed for its cooler temperatures, excellent water and beautiful views, Tivoli has been a sought-after ‘tourist’ spot since the days of the Roman Empire.
Today, Tivoli is home to some 60,000 residents. The old city center has many medieval buildings, as well as ancient ruins and monuments, and it’s easy to take a self-guided tour through its maze of narrow streets and alleys.
One of the highlights of the city is the Rocca Pia, a 15th-century castle that is amazingly well-preserved. It is located next to the ancient Roman Amphitheater, which according to the local historians, was the major source for the castle’s stone construction. Visitors are welcome outside the castle, but the castle is temporarily closed, awaiting some renovations.
We also walked through a beautiful park which is adjacent to the Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. The park offers views of Rome and the spectacular countryside surrounding Tivoli.
You will also find some fantastic little restaurants, pizzerias, and wine bars throughout the area. We had a lovely lunch at La Taverna della Rocca, but there are many wonderful choices throughout the city.
Getting There
If you are in Rome, a visit to Tivoli makes a perfect day trip. Tivoli is accessible by bus, train or auto. If you arrive in the city by one of these means, you will be able to walk to the old town and Villa d’Este. However, unless you drove your own vehicle, you will need to take a bus or taxi in order to visit Hadrian’s Villa.
Since the transportation issue was a bit complicated, we elected to a schedule a tour that included all transportation, entry fees, a guide and even lunch! We scheduled our tour through Viator. There are many tours from which to choose, and we felt the prices were quite reasonable.
TIP: Be sure to do some research before you book your tour. Although many of the tours sound similar, they are offered by different operators, and as such, the tours could be quite different. Read all of the reviews carefully and look for consistently positive reviews.
Another issue to consider is the time of year that you visit. You will notice in our photos that there are not many people in the background. Crowds were non-existent, both because we visited in November and due to the fact that tourism has not yet been fully reestablished. During normal tourist seasons though, Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este are quite popular and can be very busy.
We hope you enjoyed learning a little bit about Tivoli. If you are visiting Rome or anywhere nearby, be sure to include a day trip to Tivoli in your itinerary. It is truly a magnificent place to visit and we can promise that you will be delighted!
Until next time, safe travels.
Very well-written and interesting! Beautiful photos! Please visit our farmstead when you come to Poland.
Great article, well done. I visited Hadrian’s Villa in 1974, stopped in Tivoli first.. I walked around the castle and there was no entrance.. Did not have time to see all of the villa,, I missed so much Village! I didn’t know about the other villa. Next time.
Thank you for your comment. Tivoli was one of the top highlights of our trip.
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Great review and most helpful. Sounds like about 7 hours would be better in the whole town and visiting the gardens and sites. I was told we need a private driver cuz transportation would be difficult. But perhaps going with your guided tour Is the best option. Do Tours run on Sunday and taxis. We are arriving late October 2022
We reference the tour we used in our article. It is best to check their site fo the dates you want since schedules change. We were pi ked up in a nice van.