Welcome back to our trip to Newfoundland! In September we reviewed our 12 Days in Newfoundland with the promise of delving into Gros Morne National Park in greater detail in a future post. Well the time has come! We recommend you take a look at our previous post in order to familiarize yourself with some general information about Gros Morne and Newfoundland.
It’s never too early to start thinking about next year’s vacations, so if you are into hiking and other outdoor activities, Gros Morne National Park should be on your list of places to visit. So, sit back and come along to see nature at its best in this unique and diverse setting.
How to Get There
In our previous article we explained that on our trip to Newfoundland, we arrived in St. Johns, rented a car and drove throughout the island, including a 5-day stop in Gros Morne. That option is a good one, especially if you have the time to drive from the east to west side of the island. However, if you do not have the time or inclination to make that drive, you can fly directly into Deer Lake. Deer Lake is a town of about 5,000 residents where amenities such as hotels, restaurants, and grocery stores are readily available.
Deer Lake is situated on the northeastern part of the lake by the same name, and is less than a 30 minute drive from Gros Morne National Park. If you need groceries or other provisions for your stay in the park, this is the place to get them. There are some small stores within the park, but selection and availability could be limited.
From Deer Lake, travel north on Highway NL-430 until you are near the
southern boundary of the park. From there you can either take a turn to the east on NL-431 to access the southern portions of Gros Morne, or continue on NL-430 to access the north areas of the park.
Stop by either the Gros Morne Visitor Center located in Rocky Harbour (north side) or the Discovery Center located near Woody Point (south side). There you can obtain your park pass, along with maps and information to help you plan your stay.
TIP: Watch out when driving at any time of day, but especially between dusk and dawn. Some estimates place Newfoundland’s moose population at more than 100,000 animals, and a moose-vehicle encounter could be devastating. There are several hundred such collisions each year on the island. Be careful!
Where to Stay
Canada is home to some huge national parks. While Gros Morne is not among the largest, its 700 square miles are spread out and separated into a northern and southern side by the beautiful Bonne Bay. Since the park is so spread out, driving times throughout the park can be lengthy. You should definitely consider this fact before you decide whether to stay on the north or south side of Bonne Bay.
We stayed in the town of Rocky Point on the north side, since most of the hikes and sites we were interested in were located on that side of the park. We did drive to the south side two times during our visit to the park.
Since there were two couples on this trip, we elected to rent a 2 bedroom,
2 bath house offered by VRBO for our 5 nights in Gros Morne. After spending the previous week in hotels and B&B’s, the house, located right in Rocky Harbour, offered us a nice change of pace. It was also a great option for us, since having our own place allowed us to prepare some of our own meals and we got to take in the stunning sunsets every evening right from our own backyard!
In addition to VRBO and Airbnb rentals, numerous hotels, inns, bed and breakfasts and cabins are available as well. Here are a few of the lodging options that we considered when planning our trip. Keep in mind that this short list is just a sample of the options available.
• North Side of the Park
o Neddies Harbour Inn is a charming hotel located directly on Bonne Bay in Norris Point. The hotel offers spacious rooms with all the modern amenities, along with an included cooked breakfast. There are also a number of housekeeping cottages for those that prefer having a full kitchen, living room and separate bedrooms.
o Ocean Atlantic Cottages are also located in Norris Point overlooking the bay, but are a little further from town. All seven of the compact 1-bedroom and 2-bedroom cottages are new, and include small kitchens with full sized appliances, living rooms and private baths.
o Ocean View Hotel is located on Main Street in Rocky Harbour. This property is a traditional hotel with a large selection of room types from which to choose. There is a full service restaurant that serves dinner as well as a sizable bar that has its own menu of pub fare.
• South Side of the Park
o Bonne Bay Inn and Seaside Suites are 2 sister properties located on the southern shores of Bonne Bay in the quaint town of Woody Point. These properties offers a number of well-appointed rooms and suites, including some that are even over the waters of the bay. Dining options include a fine dining restaurant, pub, deli and ice cream parlor. Keep in mind that all guest must be at least 12 years old.
o The Rooms at Woody Point also located in Woody Point, offers 4 rooms with kitchenettes and private baths overlooking the bay. Daily breakfast delivered to your room, as well as a limited evening menu are available at an additional charge.
o The Galliott House B&B is a new bed and breakfast in Woody Point. This property is open year round and offers 4 queen rooms with private baths. Home cooked breakfasts are provided during the summer season and evening meals are offered during the off season. The property is within walking distance of other restaurants and shops.
Where to Eat
Restaurants in Newfoundland and particularly in the Gros Morne area are quite diverse in their offerings.
One of the popular foods in Newfoundland is wild game, including caribou and moose. We actually had moose for dinner on several occasions, including moose pizza. We loved it, but then again we tend to be carnivores at heart.
Never fear though, seafood is very popular across the island and fresh codfish is a perennial favorite. I must say that codfish has never been a favorite of mine, but I actually had it three times during our visit. All of the seafood is extremely fresh and was a pleasant change from the typical frozen seafood we have at home.
Rest assured though that most restaurants on the island can accommodate any type of diet, including vegan and gluten free diets.
Here are the restaurants that we tried and can recommend in Gros Morne.
Java Jack’s is a great little restaurant located right on Main Street in Rocky Harbour, and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They feature fresh seafood, pastas, organic salads and of course terrific specialty coffees. The restaurant is open seasonally from May to September. It is best to have a reservation, since seating is fairly limited.
The Treasure Box, also located on Main Street, is a little mom and pop sandwich shop co-located within their gift shop. The owners are usually onsite and are very pleasant and welcoming. This is a perfect place to stop for a quick breakfast or a soup and sandwich lunch. If you are interested in taking a bag lunch on a hike, stop here to pick it up.
• Earle’s
Earle’s is an eclectic restaurant located on the west end of Main 
Street. Their menu is pretty extensive and we ate there multiple times during our stay. We were eager to try moose and had it in the form of stew and pizza. Both were terrific! Portions are large and service is friendly. Plus, they serve our favorite, Quidi Vidi’s Iceberg beer! Earle’s offers take out and has a dairy bar if you would like to stop in for ice cream.
The Chanterelle restaurant is located at the Sugar Hill Inn on Main Street in Norris Point. This restaurant is a bit more upscale than some of the others that we tried. Along with some excellent wines, you will find seafood, steak, lamb, chicken, pork and pasta on the menu. The atmosphere was relaxed and the service was excellent, as was all of our entrees! Definitely try this restaurant if you are interested in more of a fine dining experience.
The Old Loft is located on the south side of the park on Water Street in Woody Point. This restaurant is on the waterfront and on warm days you may want to sit outside on the deck to take in the beautiful views of the bay. The exterior of the building belies its cozy, rustic interior. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch and everyone’s entrees were amazing. Like most of the other restaurants in Gros Morne, fresh seafood is the order of the day, but the burgers and sandwiches are terrific too. After your meal, take a few minutes to check out the store on the bottom floor. They have gorgeous handmade quilts and crafts.
Harbour Seafood is a seafood market located at the far western end of Main Street in Rocky Harbour. If you have a place to prepare meals, we would highly recommend stopping by and picking up seafood that is literally fresh off the boat! We purchased fish and scallops to make our own dinner one evening and everything was delicious.
TIP: Clearly most tourism occurs during late spring to early autumn. If you are traveling outside of this timeframe, be aware that some of the accommodations and restaurants are closed during the off season.
Hiking
In our first Newfoundland post we discussed a few of the top things to see in Gros Morne including the Western Brook Pond Boat Tour, the Tablelands and the Lobster Cove Lighthouse. But Gros Morne is probably best known for its incredible hiking. There are trails for every skill level and because the terrain is so varied, you will never be bored on any trail. The remainder of this post will focus on some of the hiking opportunities found throughout the park.
North Side of the Park
• Baker’s Brook Fall Trail
This out and back hike is almost 
entirely flat and is relatively easy. It is a perfect choice for those who want to get out into nature, but are not experienced hikers or have small children in tow. This trail traverses through several landscapes, including forests and boardwalks over boggy meadows, finally arriving at a cascading waterfall. Once you arrive at the waterfall the trail becomes a little steeper, but it’s nothing too tough. Be sure to stop at both observation points to get different views of the falls.
On your way back, take a few minutes to go inside the moose enclosure. This area is actually fenced off so that the moose cannot enter and will give you a chance to see what the landscape would look like without moose. It is rather amazing to see how overgrown the forest would be without the presence of these majestic animals.
Expect this hike to take about an hour, perhaps a bit longer if you are taking your time.
• Lobster Cove Head Trail
In our previous post on Newfoundland, we discussed the Lobster 
Cove Lighthouse. Be sure to take the time to see the lighthouse and the interesting historical exhibits within it. Afterwards, spend some time hiking the loop trails surrounding the lighthouse. These trails are very easy and along the way are some incredible views of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. You can follow the trails down to the rocky beach where you will have a wonderful view of the lighthouse from below. Also, be on the lookout for the red Adirondack chairs along the path where you can rest a bit and take in all the sights of the ocean and forest.
Plan to spend 2 to 3 hours at Lobster Cove if you plan to visit the lighthouse and then hike down to the beach.
• Gross Morne Mountain Trail
Gros Morne Mountain is the park’s highest peak and the view from
the top is unparalleled. However, the trail to the top is challenging. Not only are portions of the trail steep, but much of the trail is covered with small rocks, making for unsure footing. You do not have to be a seasoned hiker to make the climb, but you do have to be properly prepared. Some sort of hiking shoe or boot is necessary to protect your feet from the sharp rocks and to ensure you have proper traction on slippery terrain. You also need to carry plenty of water and snacks.
Weather on Gros Morne is renowned for is changeability, so do not be fooled by a bright sunny sky when you leave on the hike. In short order, those sunny conditions could change into clouds, wind and rain, so a jacket and rain gear are also a must.
The landscape on the mountain is very similar to the Arctic tundra and you may even see an arctic hare or a woodland caribou near the top. Once you reach the top you will be rewarded with astounding views of the glacier-carved landscape and surrounding areas including Bonne Bay and Ten Mile Pond. Take a break and spend a little time taking in the fabulous views. We stopped at this picturesque pond just below the summit to enjoy lunch. You will need to gather your strength, because believe it or not, we found it harder going back down. You have to be quite careful traversing all those small rocks that tend to shift and give way as you descend.
All along the way be on the lookout for wildlife. We were so lucky to see a huge moose only a short distance from the trail. We did not approach him, but he didn’t seem to mind us taking photos from a distance.
TIP: Never approach a moose or any wild animal. Not only do you cause the animal unnecessary stress, but you are putting yourself at great risk. Moose attacks do happen and are usually caused by humans encroaching on their space.
The Gros Morne trailhead is located about 3 miles south of Rocky Harbour on Highway 430. Depending on your speed, it will likely take you between 5 to 8 hours to make the roundtrip to the top of Gros Morne and back. Even though it is a strenuous hike, do not be discouraged. Make sure you are properly prepared and take your time. You can do it!
South Side of the Park
• Lookout Hills Trail
Make your way to the Discovery Center on the south side of the park, near Woody Point. Spend some time inside the Discovery Center in order to get an appreciation for the fascinating geology that has earned Gros Morne its UNESCO World Heritage designation.
The Lookout Hills Trail begins in the parking lot of the Discovery Center. The trail is uphill the entire way as it winds its way through a forested area before opening up to an open plateau. Once at the top you will have what is thought to be the best view in the park. Unfortunately, we hiked Lookout Hills on a rainy day so our view from the top was not the best. However, on a nice day you will have a perfect opportunity to get some splendid photos of Gros Morne Mountain, the Tablelands and Bonne Bay.
This 2.7 mile trail is considered moderately strenuous. Most people will be able to make the climb as long as you take your time. The trail is in good shape and will take you about 1.5 hours to make the trip.
• Tablelands Trails
The Tablelands present a stark contrast from other portions of the park. The brown and barren plateau that rises up to 2000 feet, is actually the remnant of an ancient sea floor. There is not as much wildlife in this area of the park, but the unique geological structures make this area a must-see stop.
There are several good hikes in the Tablelands, but a good way to 
see the landscape up close is to hike the Tablelands Trail. On this trail you can actually walk on the earth’s mantle, which was exposed by the force of the African and North American continents that were pushed together more than ½ billion years ago. Parks Canada offers guided tours of the area, but you can easily do the hike on your own.
The hike follows an old roadbed around the base of the plateau. It will take you about 90 minutes to make the 2.5 mile roundtrip hike.
If you are interested in hiking to the top of the plateau, pick up a map at the Discovery Center. It will take most of the day to make the roundtrip hike to the top of the plateau.
• Green Gardens Trail
The Green Gardens Trail travels through forests, meadows and 
seashore settings. Along the way you will encounter unique rock formations, have opportunities for wildlife viewing, and see stunning views of the ocean from numerous overlooks.
The outbound trail is mostly flat or downhill as it make its way through the boreal forest down to the seashore. So although you have to be somewhat careful on loose rocks, it’s not too difficult. As you get closer to the coast, you will find yourself along some cliffs in an open meadow. Local farmers use this area for grazing sheep. I was determined to make friends with some of them, but as I approached, I found them to be a bit ‘pungent’, and I don’t really think they were too excited about being petted anyway.
Once again a pair of red chairs awaited us in the meadow overlooking the seashore below, another stunning spot to take in more gorgeous ocean views. We considered descending the rather rickety stairs along the cliff to get down to the beach. However, since the hike was taking longer than we anticipated, we instead decided to start the return trip.
The return hike was definitely more strenuous since it was mostly uphill. All those stairs we had descended so casually on the way out, were now litterally hundreds of stairsteps back up! The total hike was nearly 7.5 miles and it took us about 5 hours to make the trip.
TIP: Our understanding is that those ‘rickety stairs’ to the beach have now been closed due to safety concerns. Check with Parks Canada before you make this trip to find out if they have been reopened or if there is an alternative route down to the beach.
Well friends, we hope you enjoyed learning about Gros Morne National Park. We loved everything about Newfoundland, but we found that Gros Morne was our favorite spot and we would not hesitate to return one day to see what else this amazing national park has to offer.