A Week in Romania – Part 1: Bucharest

Have you ever thought of traveling to Eastern Europe or Romania in particular? Before our recent trip there this summer, many people asked us questions wondering why we would want to travel there. Isn’t it very rural and unsophisticated compared to Western Europe? Is that where Dracula lived? Will anyone there even speak English? There seems to be a lot of misconceptions about this wonderful country. Hopefully our posts covering our trip to Romania will help you understand why we loved everything about Romania, its people and culture and why we highly recommend this as a European destination.

A Little Bit of History

Most of Romania was part of the Roman province of Dacia until the 3rd century. For the next nearly 1500 years the country, or at least portions of it, were subjugated by a succession of invaders including the Bulgarian, Hungarian, Ottoman and Russian Empires. The country finally declared its independence in 1877 and the German-born Carol I was proclaimed king in 1881.

During both World Wars, Romania tried to remain neutral. However, during WWI Romania finally sided with the Allies and in WWII the country was pressured by Germany to join the Axis powers. However late in that war, the country changed its allegiance to the Allied powers. Despite the change in sides, the Russian Army still took over Romania and ushered in years of communist control that finally ended in a bloody revolution in 1989.

It’s difficult to understand and appreciate today’s Romanian culture without some understanding of its past. In general, Romanians tend to be quite outgoing. Throughout our travels we met so many people eager to share their personal stories of both tremendous hardship living under the societal and economic repression of the communist era, as well as the growing pains and achievements of Romania since its end. What we found in these stories was a common theme of a spirited people, who are proud of having overcome such significant obstacles. They have their worries and concerns about the challenges their country is facing, but overall everyone expressed great optimism regarding their future, as they continue to emerge from past oppression.

Location and How to Get There

Romania is located in southeastern Europe and borders the Black Sea on the east, as well as the countries of Moldova, Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary and Ukraine. Although Romania has many rivers, its most famous is the Danube River. It is a major commercial and recreational waterway that flows for more than 200 miles through the southern portion of the county, forming the border with Bulgaria and Serbia, and meeting the Black Sea in a huge 1600-square mile delta. The beautiful Carpathian Mountains form a 600-mile wedge through the northern and central portions of the country, and are home to some of Europe’s largest populations of wildlife and virgin forests.

Romania has 12 international airports, but its busiest is the Henri Coanda airport in the capital city, Bucharest. It’s quite likely that your journey to Romania will begin in Bucharest, so the remainder of this post will discuss this amazing city.

Currency

Romania has been part of the European Union for 12 years. Although they are not part of the Schengen Area, they are in the process of joining. That means that as of 2019 they do not have open borders with other countries. To enter the country, U.S. citizens must have a passport that is valid for 3 months beyond their planned departure date. U.S. citizens can remain in the country for 90-days in any 180 day period without a visa.

Also note that Romania does not utilize the Euro. They use their own currency called the Leu. Check here for monetary conversion rates.

We did notice that in absence of Leu, Euros were accepted by individuals for tipping purposes, but do not expect businesses to accept any currency other than Leu. Credit cards seemed to be accepted virtually everywhere in Bucharest.

TIP: Keep in mind that the average monthly salary in Bucharest is about $1000, so visitors from the United States will find the prices for food, drink and accommodations to be very reasonable, especially for a European capital city.

How to Get Around

Bucharest is a large city of over 2 million people and nearly every one of them has a car! Yes, of course that is an exaggeration, but due to the country’s recent prosperity there are a tremendous number of cars in the city. The main city streets are frequently jammed and travel times during peak hours are quite long. In addition, parking is horrendous. Cars seemed to be wedged into anywhere they will fit, including on the sidewalks. So you may not want to rent a car while you are staying in the city.

If you are contemplating using taxi cabs to traverse the city, be careful. There are some legitimate cab companies, but we were repeatedly warned by locals that Bucharest is somewhat renowned for unscrupulous taxi drivers that take advantage of tourists and locals alike. Uber is a much better way to get around by car. As alternatives though, the city buses and Metro subway system are clean, safe and reliable. We used both to travel around the city and it was easy and inexpensive. We recommend using the express bus to make the 12-mile trip from the Coanda airport directly to the city center. Be forewarned though, even though it is an ‘express’ bus, it will still take at least 45 minutes to make the trip.

Ticketing for public transportation is a little bit confusing. Passengers that want to take the bus from the airport to downtown must purchase either a Multiplu Card or an Activ card. The main difference between the two cards is that you must load the Multiplu with the number of bus or tram rides you plan to take and the card cannot be reloaded. The Activ card is loaded instead with a specific monetary amount and it can be reloaded. (By the way, multiple people can use the same Multiplu or Activ card.)  A separate card must be purchased for travel on the Metro and these can be purchased at the Metro station.

Places to Stay

To minimize dependence on a vehicle we recommend obtaining accommodations somewhere close to the city center so that you can walk to a lot of destinations. You will find many choices including the international chain hotels, local boutique hotels and Airbnb. Compared to other European capital cities, prices for accommodations are pretty reasonable. We elected to stay at the Sheraton Bucharest and were quite pleased with the room and morning breakfast buffet. We did consider several other hotels including these:

• Radisson Blu Hotel Bucharest
• InterContinental Hotel Bucharest
• Mercure Bucharest City Center

Places to Eat

There is no shortage of great places to eat in Bucharest. As a cosmopolitan city, there are of course all types of cuisines and even some familiar chain restaurants from around the globe. But we would encourage you to try some more local cuisine. There are several restaurants that we can recommend including the following. All of these are within walking distance of the hotels in the city center.

Caru’ cu Bere – This restaurant is located in Bucharest’s Old Town and is an iconic favorite for both tourists and locals. The menu is extensive and represents the quintessential Romanian dining experience – lots of meat and veggies. Seriously, the menu is huge and there is something for everyone. The building itself is decorated in an Art Nouveau style and has a very cool vibe. They sometimes even have traditional dancers that provide unique entertainment.

La Mama Atenue – This restaurant provides another opportunity to sample traditional Romanian cuisine, although the menu is not quite as large as Caru’ cu Bere’s, there are still plenty of options. If you want to be a little adventurous, try the Palinca. Palinca is an adult beverage made from fermented fruit. We enjoyed a round before our meal and found that Palinca has a unique, fruity taste and packs quite a punch. If you don’t do anything else though you must try Papanasi for dessert. Papanasi is a traditional Romanian dessert consisting of doughnuts, cheese and jam. The description does not do justice to this amazing treat. We really only ordered it because a tour guide had recommended it, but we were so glad we did, because it was amazing and was the highlight of the entire meal.

Café Verona – If you are looking for something a little more laid back, try the Café Verona. This restaurant is located in a lovely outdoor setting and has a sort of beer garden feel to it. They serve burgers, sandwiches, pasta dishes, seafood, salads, draft beer and cocktails. The staff was friendly and everyone spoke English. It’s a nice place to relax and reflect on the day. Don’t worry if it rains, many of the dining areas are covered. So unless it’s really pouring you will stay dry.

Fabrica De Bere Buna – If local beer is more your style, this little brewery is located a short walk away from the city center. They serve small plates, so it’s a great place to go to try a craft beer and a light snack.

TIP: Don’t be afraid of a language barrier. Menus typically have English descriptions and many, if not most, servers speak some English.

Things to Do

• Take a Walking Tour

Whenever we arrive in a new place, we like to get an overview of the city by either driving or walking around. In Bucharest, we decided to take a guided walking tour on our first day there. We chose Intrepid Urban Adventures tour company and signed up for their Bohemian Bucharest: Markets and Mahallas tour.

This tour company’s tag line is “Best. Day. Ever.” and it certainly was for us. There were only 5 other folks on our tour and we spent nearly 6 hours together walking all over Bucharest. This tour was made extra special because of our warm and engaging guide, Dana. As a life-long resident of Bucharest, she had an exceptional knowledge of Romanian history and local culture. In addition, Dana had a keen interest in our backgrounds and asked a lot of questions about our lives in the United States. We spent a lot of time sharing tidbits from each of our cultures and this colloquial conversation made the entire experience so much more personal.

We walked through many unique neighborhoods, called Mahallas, stopping along the way to sample various beer, wines, and snacks. Owing to the many cultures that have impacted Romania throughout the centuries, Bucharest is comprised of an astonishing collection of eclectic architecture. Throughout the city you will encounter examples of medieval, modern, Art Nouveau, Soviet, Byzantine and other architectural styles, some literally side-by-side. You will also find prolific examples from Bucharest’s Belle Epoque era that occurred in the late 1800’s. During this era, Bucharest experienced a cultural explosion and was greatly influenced by French culture. So much so, it was frequently referred to as Paris of the East.

One of the highlights of the tour was the stop at the Piata Obor Market. The Obor Market is one of the oldest in Romania, having been there in some form for 300 years. Open 7 days per week, the market is located near the Obor Metro station, about 2 miles from the city center.

This market is massive. Its first floor has an array of the most beautiful fruits and vegetables you have ever seen. The upper level is comprised of many specialty shops including butcher shops, bakeries, wine shops and other specialty items. All along the way, our guide purchased vegetables, cheeses, meats and wine.

Outside the market is an outdoor restaurant, Terasa Obor, that serves a national specialty, a grilled sausage called mici. Our guide created a wonderful picnic lunch for us from all the goodies she had purchased inside the market, along with the delicious mici sausage and beer. The sausage was absolutely amazing and the produce exploded with deliciousness. It was a simple meal, but one that will be remembered for a very long time.

• Visit Old Town

As the name suggests, Old Town contains the remnants of the original city of Bucharest where some of the buildings date back to the 1500’s. Prior to the 1990’s many of the buildings had fallen into disrepair, but a revitalization effort completed in 2013 has restored Old Town to much of its original elegance. Today Old Town is known for its night life, but there is plenty going on during the day time to warrant a visit.

One stop you should make in Old Town is the Stavropoleus Church, one of the oldest religious monuments in Bucharest. The building is an example of the Brancovenesc architecture, a unique style that originated in Romania in the early 1700’s. This very small Eastern Orthodox church has a collection of rare icons, as well as partially preserved frescoes. An appointment is necessary to enter the building, but you can simply walk by to see the exterior frescoes.

There are fine restaurants all over Old Town. But be sure to take a walk down French Street or Smarden Street and stop by one of the many lovely outdoor cafes for a coffee or aperitif. You may even feel like you are in Paris as you people-watch from one of the sunny sidewalk terraces amidst all the beautiful flowers and soft music that emanates from each café.

A quirky place to check out in Old Town is the Carturesti Carusel, a beautiful 5-story bookstore on Lipscani Street. In addition to books, they sell a variety of handmade crafts and souvenirs. They also have some of the coldest air conditioning we encountered in all of Bucharest. We were there on a 95-degree day and took refuge in the bookstore’s café located on the 5th floor. If you go during the summer, be sure to try their delicious homemade lemonade!

• Tour of the Palace of Parliament

The Palace of Parliament is the seat of Romania’s government and is located in central Bucharest. This nearly 4 million square foot building was constructed at the behest of Nicolae Ceausescu, who was Romania’s communist dictator from 1965 until his execution in 1989. As dominating as this mammoth building is from the outside, the opulence of the interior is astounding. No expense was spared during its construction and in fact the costs nearly bankrupted the country.

As the second largest building in the world, only after the Pentagon, it is a must see. Note you must bring your passport for entry into the building and you cannot enter the building unless you are part of a guided tour. Tours take 1 to 2 hours depending on the tour that you select. There are many choices for tours and TripAdvisor is a good place to find the tour that works best for you.

• Mogoşoaia Palace

The Mogosoaia Palace was the home of Constantin Brancoveanu, Prince of Wallachia from 1688 to 1714. (Wallachia was the name of this area of southern Romania from the 1300’s to the 1800’s.) The beautiful summer palace was completed in the Brancovenesc and Venetian architectural styles. During the 1930’s the palace was restored to its original appearance and was actually considered to be quite a modern residence at the time. In 1948 the palace became a museum, as it is to this day.

The garden is open to all visitors at no charge and there is a nominal fee to tour the house. If you are not able to drive yourself, Uber could be a good choice to get to the palace. Be aware that depending on the time of day, some Uber drivers are reluctant to drive back into Bucharest due to all the traffic congestion. A better choice may be to arrange a tour that provides transportation to the palace.

• Snagov Monastery

Located about 25 miles from the Mogosoaia Palace is the Snagov Monastery. The monastery was founded in the 1300’s and is located on an island in the middle of a lake. There is supposedly one monk remaining who is responsible for caring for the small Orthodox Church, which is really the only remnant of the original monastery. The religious artwork inside the little church is very well preserved and is quite beautiful.

In the middle of the church is the grave of Vlad the Impaler. (If you are not aware, Vlad the Impaler was a 15th century ruler of Romania and Bram Stoker’s inspiration for Dracula.) However, there seems to be some disagreement regarding who is actually buried there. Modern historians believe it is more likely that the grave is that of a former Prince of Wallachia. Either way, it’s a very interesting place and worth your time to stop there. There is no admission fee, although there is a fee to take photographs inside the church. Plan to spend about an hour there to tour the church and remainder of the island.

TIP: Since the monastery is quite a ways out of the city, you should probably consider a tour that will provide transportation to the site. There are some tours that will include both the Mogosoaia Palace and Snagov Monastery. Check TripAdvisor to see some good options.

• Dimitri Gusti National Village Museum

For a real step back in time, the National Village Museum brings to life the history of Romania’s rural areas and traditional lifestyles. This nearly 40-acre, open-air museum is comprised of an impressive collection of authentic structures, many of which have been relocated from across the country. The exhibits provide a realistic view of the households, businesses and churches spanning the past 300 years. In addition, each structure contains arts, crafts, furniture, tools and machinery consistent with the period. In fact, there were quite a number of artisans dressed in period costumes who were demonstrating their various skills and some were even selling their arts and crafts.

Plan to spend a few hours at the museum, more if you have a particularly keen interest in this type of history. The entry fee is quite nominal, only 15 Lei (about $3.50). Audio tours and personally guided tours in English are available for additional fees.

The museum is located in the northern part of the city and is easy to reach via bus, metro or Uber.

TIP: See some other scenic parts of northern Bucharest on your way to the museum, including the majestic Arch of Triumph, the beautiful Brancovenesc-style homes from the 18th and 19th centuries, the Casa Presei (House of the Free Press) and the Herastrau Park.

The days we spent in Bucharest were full of unique and memorable experiences. Bucharest is admittedly not as ‘refined’ as some cities in Western Europe, but that trait is exactly what makes this city so special. Contrary to all the misconceptions, Bucharest is a clean, vibrant, safe city with welcoming people who are eager to share their country with visitors.

Let us know if our portrayal of Bucharest has piqued your interest in visiting the city. To continue to explore Romania, take a look at Part 2 of our visit to Romania as we head north to Transylvania and the Carpathian Mountains!