12 Days in Newfoundland

We love traveling throughout Canada and after exploring many of its beautiful eastern provinces, we were determined to include the wild and wonderful island of Newfoundland in our travel plans.

Newfoundland, also known as “The Rock” for its worn and rugged landscape, is the most eastern point in North America. (They even have their own Time Zone.)  The island is known for its friendly people, vibrant culture, unique landscapes, prolific wildlife, and of course, icebergs.

You could easily spend a month or more in Newfoundland and still not see everything.  However, we were lucky enough to spend 12 days there during late summer, and felt that we got a pretty good overview of this beautiful island and it definitely lived up to all of our expectations!

Our suggested itinerary will provide you with an overview of some main points of interest as well as some tips on getting there and navigating the island.  So grab a cup of coffee or a nice glass of wine and come along as we recap our visit.

TIP: Be sure to make reservations for car rentals and accommodations well in advance.  Although Newfoundland is by most standards ‘uncrowded’, cars and hotels are in high demand during the prime travel periods.

How to Get There

Newfoundland can be reached by daily passenger and vehicle ferry service from Sydney, Nova Scotia and (in summer) from Blanc Sablon, Quebec.  These crossings can take more than 12 hours, so most visitors will choose to arrive by air.

The most popular international airports are St. John’s on the east coast and Deer Lake on the west coast.  It is easy to rent a car in either location.  It may seem tempting to fly in and pick up your car in one location and then drop off the car and fly out of the other.  Be aware though that the car rental company may not allow drop-off in an alternate location or will charge a significant premium to do so.

We chose to begin and end our trip in St. John’s.  This decision resulted in more driving, but we planned stops along the way that made the entire trip interesting.

2 Days in St John’s

St. John’s is not only the capital and largest city in the province, but it is the oldest city in North America.  While it has plenty of old world charm, it is also a modern city in which you can find just about any luxury or convenience you can imagine.  Most of the major hotel chains and many familiar restaurants can be found in the city.  However, there are also many wonderful private restaurants and quaint boutique hotels that offer more unique and individual experiences.

Although some may be a bit more expensive than the chain hotels, here are a few of the downtown specialty hotels you may want to consider:

• Murray Premises Hotel
• Ryan Mansion
• JAG Boutique Hotel

While touring St. John’s, one of the first things to notice are the rainbow of brightly colored homes and businesses that are located all over the hills and rocky outcroppings of the city.  Close to downtown is particularly delightful neighborhood of row houses known as “Jellybean Row”.  A favorite with tourists, these vibrant homes and businesses are said to be the genesis of the colorful trend found throughout the city and across the island.

No trip to the Newfoundland would be complete without a visit to the Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site. There you can find the oldest lighthouse in the province, located on the easternmost point of North America.  It’s a relatively easy hike to the top where visitors will be rewarded with spectacular views of the Atlantic, along with humpback whales, puffins and even passing icebergs.

Visitors can also visit the restored lighthouse which was tended for more than 150 years, to get an idea of what life was like there for the lighthouse keepers during the 1800’s. Cape Spear was also home to an active fort during World War II that was intended to guard the harbor of St. John’s. In addition, a radar station shared the same location and was manned by both Canadian and American forces.  Visitors can hike to the remains of 2 large gun batteries and a series of rooms and tunnels in the hills surrounding the batteries.

Plan to spend at least 2 to 3 hours to see everything at a leisurely pace.  But even if you only have a few minutes to stop by and see the view, it will be well worth your time!

TIP: Most of the National Historic Sites and National Parks in Newfoundland have entry fees.  Instead of paying at each location, consider purchasing a Discovery Pass at any Parks Canada location or online. The pass provides admission to all of these sites and will probably be more cost effective for you.

Signal Hill is another point of interest that provides both fantastic views, hiking and some very interesting history.  Its Gothic Revival Cabot Tower, completed in 1900, is easily recognizable on the St. John’s skyline. The tower, originally used to announce the arrival and origin of ships entering St.  John’s Harbour is today best known as the site of the first transatlantic wireless communication that occurred via Morse code in 1901.

However, this site has a long military history dating back to the mid-1700’s.  Visitors can journey back in time through several period reenactments and storytelling events that are held onsite.  For an additional fee, both children and adults can even participate in some of these events.

St. John’s has a wonderful system of hiking trails called the Grand Concourse that connects virtually all of its parks and many of its points of interest.  You can begin a number of these hikes from Signal Hill.  These scenic hikes range from easy to strenuous, so be sure to consult the trail maps and bring the appropriate gear for your hike.

The Quidi Vidi village within St. Johns is home to several unique spots.  You can visit the Quidi Vidi Plantation, home to numerous artists and artisans selling their hand-crafted items.  The Mallard Cottage, often referred to as one of the oldest wooden structures in North America, has been lovingly restored and now serves as a wonderful restaurant.  Our favorite spot though was the Quidi Vidi Brewery located in the quaint harbor area.

Quidi Vidi Brewery is Newfoundland’s largest craft brewer and they currently offer 16 different beers in their taproom. Most unique among them is QV’s Iceberg Beer, touted as being brewed with the water from 20,000 year old icebergs!  This beer, in its gorgeous cobalt blue bottle, quickly became our favorite and we ordered it frequently during our trip across Newfoundland.

The Quidi Vidi Brewery is open daily for tours and tastings.  If you’re not a beer drinker, it’s still worth a trip for the beautiful harbor views.

2 Days – Terra Nova National Park

About a 3-hour drive north of St. John’s on the Trans-Canada Highway you will find Bonavista Bay and Terra Nova National Park.  A good place to start your visit is at the park’s Visitor Centre located off Route 1, toward the northern end of the park.  There you will be able to watch an orientation film, obtain your park pass, trail maps, camping information and be able to talk over your plans with park staff.

We elected to spend about 2 days in the park, primarily taking advantage of the prolific hiking trails. The park’s landscape is a true marvel.  Rugged mountains that are actually part of the Appalachian chain flow down to meet the beautiful waters of the Bonavista Bay.  On many hikes, you will be rewarded with stunning views of the bay, where you may see some of the 22 species of whales, dolphins and porpoises that frequent the bay during the summer months.  Other trails traverse boreal forests where abundant wildlife such as black bears, moose, beaver and pine martins can often be spotted.

One of the charming aspects of not only Terra Nova, but all of Canada’s national parks is their “Red Chair” destinations.  These red adirondack chairs are found throughout the parks at particularly scenic locations, allowing visitors a little time to relax and take in the surrounding scenery.   We relished each opportunity to spend a few quiet minutes in these chairs whenever we encountered them.

If you do not want to stay in the park, there are several small towns in the surrounding area that offer casual lodging and food options.  We had a wonderful stay at the Inn by the Sea in Eastport, where our friendly hosts treated us more like family members than just overnight guests.

Restaurant options in Eastport are a little slim.  But we found Chucky’s Seafood and Wild Game Restaurant located in the nearby Happy Adventure Inn, a terrific choice.  In addition to the cozy atmosphere, fresh seafood and game, they serve our new favorite, Quidi Vidi beers!

5 Days – Gros Morne National Park

After leaving Terra Nova and spending most of the day in the car, we arrived in Rocky Harbour, our home base for our stay in Gros Morne National Park.  Honestly, when we were planning this trip we wondered if the relatively long drive would be worth it.  Let me assure you, it is.  In terms of its beauty and unique landscapes, Gros Morne is one of the most stunning places we have ever visited.  What can you find in Gros Morne?  Packed into 700 square miles, ancient glaciers have left behind rock-strewn mountains, verdant forests, desert-like hills, fjords, gorges, lakes, rivers, bogs, and beaches. This exceptional combination of landscapes helped earn Gros Morne designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Keep in mind that Gros Morne is divided into a northern and southern side by 16-mile long Bonne Bay.  Driving times around the park are somewhat lengthy due to this separation and the overall size of the park.  It’s a good idea to decide what areas of the park you plan to visit the most when deciding on a place to stay.  We chose Rocky Harbor simply because we planned to spend most of our time on the north side of the bay.

The best place to begin your visit is at Gros Morne Visitor Centre located in Rocky Harbor (north side) or the Discovery Centre located near Woody Point (south side).  Take advantage of the knowledgeable staff who can help you plan your excursions. There is so much to see and do in the park, you will want to prioritize your interests to be sure you make the most of your time.

We have provided a lot more detail about Gros Morne in our new post, Visiting Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park. but we’ll cover a few of the places here that are easily accessible and that you will not want to miss.

TIP: Weather throughout Newfoundland and especially the Gros Morne area is very unpredictable. Be sure to bring jackets, hats and rain gear if you are going on any long hikes.

Western Brook Pond Tour

Outside of British Columbia and Alaska, Western Brook Pond offers the only place to cruise an actual fjord in North America.  About 17 miles north of Rocky Harbour on Route 540 you will find the parking lot for the Western Brook Pond boat tour.  After an easy 2 mile hike though some bogs and flatlands, you will come upon Western Brook Pond.  The term ‘pond’ might not seem too thrilling, but don’t be fooled by the name.   Once aboard your Bontours tour boat you will begin a cruise over pristine waters that will take you into the majestic fjord surrounded by 2000 foot cliffs and the cascading waters of Pissing Mare Falls.

Be sure to bring some layers and a hat.  Even on a relatively warm day, it can be quite cool on the water.  You can always choose to remain inside the cabin on the boat if you prefer, but the views are much better on the deck.

Tablelands

In the midst of all the green forests and beautiful blue waters of Gros Morne, the brown and barren plateau of the Tablelands offers a marked contrast.  Rising to more than 2000 feet above sea level, this area of the park is actually the remnant of an ancient sea floor that existed ½ billion years ago. The geological makeup of the land does not lend itself to plant life and therefore you will not find a lot of wildlife in the area.  However, the uniqueness of the terrain and contrast with the surrounding area make the Tablelands a must-see.

To tour by vehicle, simply follow Route 432 for a scenic drive.   However, to really get a feel for the stunning vistas and amazing landscapes you may want to try a hike or two.  You can get a map and hike on your own, arrange for a guide or even download the Parks Canada Guided Tour app for a self-guided experience.

Lobster Cove Lighthouse

Overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the entrance to Bonne Bay, the Lobster Cove Lighthouse has guided seafarers for more than 100 years.  Today this lovely lighthouse is a museum providing exhibits about local history.  There are also several short trails that offer spectacular views of the surrounding seascape. Picnic facilities are available and everything is easily accessible, with only minimal walking required.  This is a great place to watch the sunset and Parks Canada even offers special evening programs focusing on the music and storytelling traditions of western Newfoundland.  Plan to spend from 1 to 3 hours here.

2 Days – St. Anthony

The drive from Rocky Harbour to St. Anthony on Route 430 area takes at least 4 hours.  We spent about 6 hours because we stopped a few times to see some of the interesting sites along the way including:

• Arches Provincial Park to see the unique geological formation.
• A lonely iceberg. Yes, even though it was long past iceberg season, we managed to site one along the way.
• The Thrombolites, Flower Cove – There are only 2 places on earth to see thrombolites which are actually 650 million year old fossils of the earliest forms of life on the planet. You will probably only spend about 30 minutes here, but don’t miss it. 

After leaving the beauty of Gros Morne, we assumed that our visit to St. Anthony would be a little anticlimactic.  However, even though the St. Anthony area does not offer the breadth of activities found in Gros Morne, it definitely did not disappoint.

As folks who had become a bit enamored with the History Channel’s Vikings series, we were very excited about our visit to L’Anse Aux Meadows, the site of the first European settlement (think Vikings) in North America.  Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, archeological evidence suggests that the settlement was first established over 1000 years ago.  Today you can see some remains of their settlement along with a recreated village and actors dressed in period costumes who carry out some of the day-to-day activities of the time.

In addition to all the history, L’Anse Aux Meadows’ location on the tip of Great Northern Peninsula offers beautiful views across the Strait of Belle Isle to Labrador, the larger mainland portion of the province. There is also a connected boardwalk and hiking trail that offers a leisurely means for exploring the area. Plan to spend about ½ day to take in all that the site has to offer.

Whale Watching in St. Anthony

On our second day in the St. Anthony area, we booked a whale watching tour with Northland Discovery Boat Tours. The tour guides and crew were exceptional and we were only on the water for a short time before we were treated to the stunning site of breaching humpbacks.  Be sure to take a good camera and be prepared for some superb photo opportunities of not only whales, but dolphins, bald eagles and other wildlife.

There are a number of places to stay in St. Anthony, but we chose Grenfell Heritage Hotel and Suites. This quiet and cozy hotel is located in the center of town and is close to several local landmarks.  They offer traditional hotel rooms as well as housekeeping suites, along with several packaged tours.

For lunch or dinner try the Lightkeepers Seafood Restaurant located at the end of Fishing Point Road.  It’s a casual place with great seafood and sometimes even a view of passing whales and dolphins. If you have time either before or after your meal, take a walk around the Fishing Point Municipal Park for more great views of Fishing Point Cove.

Heading Home

Our final two days in Newfoundland were spent making our way back to St. John’s for our flight home, with an overnight stop in the little town of Springdale.  We stayed at the lovely Indian River Brook B&B, where our host Doreen made us feel right at home and even entertained us by playing a traditional Newfoundland musical instrument called an ‘ugly stick’.

On our last evening we had dinner in the nearby village of Kings Point at By the Sea Inn and Café.  It’s a casual spot overlooking an arm of Notre Dame Bay.  They serve terrific seafood, along with more traditional Newfoundland fare.

After dinner we were treated to this beautiful double rainbow. What a delightful way to end our stay in Newfoundland!

How about you?  Have you been to Newfoundland or ever thought of taking a trip there?  Let us know if you have any questions about the trip or if you need more information for planning.  We loved Newfoundland so much and look forward to sharing our experiences with you.  Be sure to look for our upcoming post on Gross Morne National Park.